Pallet Bench Project
Introduction: Pallet Bench Project
This is a simple pallet bench project I wanted to share with everyone. I was making this for a family night we will be hosting. Though it is a bit crude it does the trick and I like the raw finish.
Step 1: Materials
You will need a few tools to get the job done. Drill, drill bit and phllips bit, hand saw (or power saw), 2-1/2 & 3 inch screws, tapemeasure, pencil, square & a sander. I used a 44×32" pallet, a 2x1x36" scrap wood for support& a 7′ 2×4 for the legs.
Step 2: Cutting the Pallet As Needed
The pallet I am using is 44 x 32 inches. I cut a small portion of the pallet to use for the back rest. With drill/screw gun drive 3, 3 inch screws anchored the back rest to the seat of the bench for support also to hold into place before I get the side supports on. You can use anything for the side supports.
Step 3: Side Support
I also found small scrap 2×1 inch wood for side supports. To be honest I held them into place and marked the future pilot holes as well as marked the lines to cut the sides to fit then screwed them into place. I also had a small piece of 1×2-1/2 lumber I used as the bottom support on both sides. You dont have to follow this but I wanted to make sure it wasn’t going anywhere. You could also use two pallets lumber to make this bench.
Step 4: A Lil Sanding
Once the supports are in place I decided to give it a once over with a sander to clean up some of the rough edges before adding the legs.
Step 5: Attaching the Legs
I wanted my bench to be 16" from the ground. I measured and cut each 2×4 at 16" then attached them to the sides both on the front and back for support. I used 4, 3" screws to anchor the legs to the bench.
Step 6: Finish and Enjoy
When complete this should be a SOLID bench seat for your home. You can also add stain and a pad for more comfort. Feel free to contact me with any questions. Haters need not reply.
Pallet Adirondack Chair
Introduction: Pallet Adirondack Chair
Here’s a fun way to reuse wood. Make this Adirondack chair from shipping pallets or other reclaimed lumber.
Step 1: The Low-down on Pallets
Pallets come in many shapes and styles. They’re made from lots of different types of wood. They are readily available for free.
In fact, most companies pay people to take them away.
But there’s a catch: pallets aren’t easy to take apart. They’re also usually not made of very good lumber. If you use them for projects, you’re going to spend A LOT of time dismantling them and you’re not going to get much from a single pallet.
If you’re expecting perfection, than pallet lumber may not be right for you. You can try salvaging used material from places like craigslist. I collected an impressive amount of wood for my other pallet instructable, the Pallet Playhouse.
If you’re not interested in turning a pallet into something else or trucking around the nation looking for free stuff, substitute the pallet wood for some nice cedar or pressure treated wood. I made a PT set in a similar pattern that’s held up for 11+ years of direct exposure to the elements. They’re still perfectly sound. You won’t get that kind of performance from pallet wood.
Step 2: What to Look For
I get my pallets from my employer. They throw them away, into a dumpster if I don’t get to them first. They pay to have the dumpster emptied, of course, so they’re more than happy to give me as many as I want.
Only about one in ten of the pallets I came across were the kind I wanted. I tried to find ones that were brand-new, roughly 48" x 35", and were constructed of (3) notched 2’x4’s connected by 3/4" inch nominal boards (commonly called "one by" lumber.) Usually, one side is rough sawn and the other is finished. All of them were heat treated (marked "HT") and held together by nearly indestructible spiral nails.
After I posted my first pallet project to Instructables, a lot of people commented about the dangers of pesticide-treated pallets. For the record: I only use ISPM 15 certified pallets. That means that the pallets are inspected, and certified to be either heat-treated (marked HT) or fumigated with Methyl Bromide (marked BM). It also states that the pallet must be marked with either the HT or MB stamps.
I only use new, HT-marked pallets that were used solely to ship paper. I would not recommend using any pallet that is not plainly marked, but then again, it’s a free country.
Step 3: Where to Look for Them
Pallets are everywhere. As I mentioned, I get mine from my workplace, but thousands of other businesses are constantly looking for someone to take them away. I’ve gotten them from supermarkets, restaurants, and office buildings. I’ve had a number of people recommend carpet companies, furniture stores or outlets, and atv/snowmobile dealers.
I also see them up on craigslist all the time.
Step 4: Be Careful!
Working with power tools is dangerous, doubly so when working with pallets. There are hidden nails, knots, warped boards, etc. Use proper safety equipment, especially eye protection. Don’t use a power tool unless you’re familiar with it.
You could very easily get hurt, so proceed at your own risk.
Step 5: Tools You’ll Need
Tools/material you need, at minimum:
3) Drill (cordless is best, but even a hand drill will work)
4) Small bit for pilot holds (size depends on the screws you use)
5) 3/8" Spade or forstner bit for counter sinks
6) A saw of some sort– I wouldn’t try this without a circular saw, but hand saws would work.. A jig saw, band saw, and table saw would all help, too.
7) Some sort of screw driver for your screws. Power drills work best
8) Wood glue
10) Wood putty
11) 3-4 good pallets
Step 6: How to Break Them Down
I experimented with different methods, but I finally settled on this particular method of disassembling the pallets.
This is how I do it:
I start by cutting off the outside stringers (the 2×4’s) with a skill saw. Watch out for nails!
Draw a straight line on each side as a guide to cut off the outside stringers. A chalk line works well.
You’ll want to set your depth at a fraction more than the 3/4 inch board.
After you cut along each outside stringer (not the middle!), flip the pallet over and do the same on the other side.
WARNING: Pallets are usually made of the lumber that got rejected for other uses. It’s hard, often warped, has old broken nails embedded in it, and generally is just a pain to work with. Be careful. Wear goggles. Repetitive work breeds carelessness. Trust me, I know.
Some other methods:
–Cut the nails with a sawzall.
–Use a pneumatic chisel
–Use a catspaw to dig the nails out (for certain pallets, this is easy. For some, it’s darn near impossible.)
Step 7: How to Break Them Down, Continued.
Use a hammer to knock the stinger off if it’s stubborn.
Step 8: Detach the Board From the Middle Stringer.
You’ll be left with a bunch of 1X4’s and 1X6’s attached to the 2×4 in the center.
By rocking the 1×4’s and the 1×6’s back and forth, you can get the board off without totally destroying it.
There will still be quite a few ruined boards. Good for the woodstove.
Pull or remove any nails left in the board and stack it to the side. You may also want to grade your boards, based on knots, warping, bark, etc. This will help later when you try to decide what to use for what job.
Step 9: The Payoff
I usually get about (6) good 1×4’s and (3) good 1×6’s per pallet. I also get a (3) 4′ lengths of 2×4.